Friday, November 23, 2012

Ancient History

Ancient History. I'm a sucker for the really old stuff.  Of particular interest to me with this trip is the history of the Hittites, whose empire was strong between the 18th-12th century BCE.  The Hittes are mentioned in the Bible, supposedly Abraham purchased a cave from them, though it's possible that the writers of the Biblical story of Abraham borrowed the name "Hittite" from their current history as it's debatable that there were Hittites in Canaan during the time of Abraham. Regardless, it is true that the Hittites and the Egyptians had a lot of dealings with one another back in the day and there's a ton of history that comes from their conflicts/relations.  For example, the very first known Peace Treaty in the history of the world was written between the Egypitans and the Hittites.  Luckily for me, it's in Istanbul at the Archaeology Museum, so I'll get to see it there! 

I'm pretty excited about the museum in Istanbul, but it looks like there is a museum that has an even larger collection of Hittite artifacts in Ankara, Turkey's capital.   I'm thinking about the possibility of stopping at the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations on my way to Cappadoccia.  Maybe just one or two days in Ankara? Certainly it sounds like it would be a good introduction before going to Cappadoccia, which was a major settlement of the Hittites.



A random piece of history for you:  The Hittites were well known for being charioteers. In fact, they were very likely the first to utilize charriots during war!  They utilized their mechanical skills to improve the charriot and made it possible to carry 3 people as opposed to only 2. 

Monday, October 29, 2012

Oh the Things I'll do!

There are 3 million things to do in Istanbul. I'm going to start a running list of the things that sound interesting to me.  This way I can sift through them later and pick the ones that are MUST do and things that are MAYBE do.

  • Topkapi Palace- location of the head of the Ottoman Empire for over 300 years.  Supposedly should take at least .5-1 day for this.
  • Church of the St. Saviour in Chora (Chora Church)- a Byzantine Christian church with mosaics and frescoes that were amazingly preserved despite the Ottoman take-over
  • Ferry across the Bosphorus - Don't take a cruise, they are more expensive and not any better than the commuter ferries
  • Chill out under the Galata Bridge - watch the boats, go to tea houses and restaurants
  • Hagia Sophia
  • Walk the Theodosius Walls 
  • Dolmabahse Palace
  • Hamam - find one the locals go to, they are cheaper and more authentic. Drink lots of water!
  • See the Whirling Dervishes - This site looks interesting.  Do some more research though.
  • Visit Princes Island
  • Archaeology Museum
  • The Blue Mosque
  • The Grand Bazaar
  • The Egyptian Spice Bazaar
  • Mosque of Suleyman the Magnificent - 16th century
  • Istiklal Street- pedestrian only street full of shopping and restaurants
  • Underground Cistern
  • Hagia Irene
  • Galata Tower


Sunday, October 28, 2012

Flights

To make my whole trip a bit cheaper but a also more complicated, I'm going to split the flight up a bit. I have air miles on Southwest so I'll get a round trip flight for free within the US. The plan is to utilize this to get to Chicago or NYC and then fly from there on an airline that can get me to Istanbul. I'm not sure how this will work as far as transferring my luggage- I think I should be able to check it all the way through (I hope), but I am going to have to look into that.

On the search for cheap flights, there are a couple of airlines that have direct flights to Istanbul: Delta, United Airlines, KLM, and Turkish Airlines.  I did a quick search based on the approximate date I'm planning and it looks like United Airlines is the cheapest flying out of NYC.

So here is the plan:
Portland to NYC via Southwest air miles
NYC to Istanbul via United Airlines
then
Istanbul to NYC via United Airlines
NYC to Portland via Southwest air miles

Any other ideas out there?  I'd rather not have too many stops...obviously!

Now, the really big issue. I can't sleep sitting up. It makes flying difficult and it's been a while since I've been on a flight that is this long.  Any suggestions on how to sleep while flying?  I found this gem in my own searches:  "How to Sleep on a Plane."

Enjoy!

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Istanbul Lodging

There are at least 34 Hostels in Istanbul.  I've narrowed it down to 4 possibilities for myself.

In an attempt to narrow the selection down, I started by cutting them down based on location.  I really want to stay in the Old Town area because that's where most of the history that I am interested in is.  This eliminated 17 possibilities.

The next thing I did was narrow down based on how much information was available online. Did the hostel have a website? Was the website at all helpful or did it just refer me to hostel.com or some other booking site?  What amenities are offered?  I was surprised at how much this narrowed the selection down.  I was then at 6 selection!   I cut two out based on price (they were much more expensive than the other 4, but didn't necessarily look any better.  So here's what I am left with:

Nobel Hostel - 4 bed dorm
Orient Hostel - 4 bed dorm
Cordial House Hostel - 8 bed dorm (females only) - Unsure of free breakfast?
Sultan Hostel - mixed dorm (didn't specify bed #)

I'm leaning towards the Nobel Hostel or The Orient Hostel.

Your thoughts?






Monday, October 8, 2012

Technology or no?

I just found out that Apple is going to be announcing a new iPad that is smaller than the original but bigger than a cell phone.  This brings up a conundrum for me.  Do I utilize technology on this trip or not?

This wasn't a big question when I lived in N. Ireland. Yes, cell phones were in existence, but they weren't "Smart" and basically if I wanted information, I had to go to an internet library or ask *gasp* a person!

The pros of an ipad are immense.  I could easily update my family and friends of my trip. Historical information and maps would be at the tip of my fingertips.  I could download walking tours, calculate currency, and find transportation easier.

The cons of the ipad, while not as numerous, are still important to consider.  Using technology may mean that I lose the immense sense of adventure.  Basically, the question is: how can I find myself if I don't first get lost?

What are your opinions?

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Spirituality

Tonight at yoga, the teacher came over to help me with a stretch that just wasn't happening.  After she helped me at least get slightly comfortable in the pose, I wanted to cry because I felt really stuck, not flexible, unmoved.  It made me want to go away to a beautiful island and spend a month learning yoga and focusing every day on deep stretching and finding peace with my body.  It dawned on me that many people who go on yoga retreats go not just for the physical peace they find, but for the spiritual peace. I found myself suddenly wanting that.  It made me wonder what I could do to make my trip to Turkey a more spiritually based journey.

As I will be going to a place ripe with the history of Islam, it seems fitting for me to learn more about the Muslim faith.  I don't know that much about the Spiritual practice of Muslims.  What are their prayers? I know they pray ritually 5 time a day, but what are they saying and thinking?  What about spiritual meals or community gatherings?  What is it like to attend a Mosque?

I think it would be best for me to explore some of these questions here in Portland, but I wonder if I shouldn't bring it with me to Istanbul?  Should I wake up every morning at sunrise for the first prayer of the day?  What other ways can I learn more about the spiritual practices of Muslim while I'm in Turkey?  It's in writing this that I realize I know so very little about one of the great faiths of our world.

Saturday, June 16, 2012

"Women and Islam" lecture

Tonight I had the privilege of attending a lecture at the Rosegarden Turkish American Cultural Center here in Portland. I signed up for their mailing list a while ago to follow any Turkish language classes and read about this lecture in one of the emails they sent out.  It was given by Dr. Sophia Pandya from California State University, Long Beach, and I really enjoyed it.

First, I should tell you how nervous I was when I arrived.  The building is pretty much unmarked, the only reason I knew I was in the right place was because I saw women with the hijab entering.  I wondered if I was inappropriately dressed (tank top and capris) but decided to venture in and find out.  When I came in the door, there were only men, so I tol done who approached me that I was there for the lecture and he walked me to a room where the women were waiting.  So in I walk, only about 1/3 of the women wore hijab but I was definitely showing more skin than anybody else.  I asked if I should cover up and they said absolutely not, from then on they did nothing but smile at me, introduce themselves, and inquire as to who I was.  They were simply lovely.  One young woman I met, named Selen, was especially helpful. She has been here in the US for about 2 years having come from Istanbul. Her husband got a job here so she's working on a Master's degree at PSU in Engineering.  She graciously answered my questions, made sure I understood where to go and when (not that it was complicated, I just didn't want to offend anybody so was slightly more careful than normal).

The lecture itself was an excellent introduction for me. Even though I have a B.A. and a Master's degree in Religion, both degrees focused on Christianity. I know so little about the history of Islam as well as the culture.  Dr. Pandya started by showing us clips of American movies and shows depicting Arabs.  It was horrifying.  American's have done such a great job of depicting Arabic Men as evil and dangerous and Arabic Women as timid and beaten.  We have depicted Arab nations as being backwards and uneducated.  It made me think about what a responsibility Hollywood has to be more cautious about its' depictions of other cultures. Hollywood has the power to do a lot of harm to people.

In discussing the patriarchy of Islam, Dr. Pandya started by reminding us that the Prophet Mohammed was actually quite progressive. He made it so that women could inherit property, he consulted women on matters of faith, and he in general made life a bit easier for women.  The patriarchal part of Islam came later when the center of the Islamic Empire was moved from Damascus to Persia.  There, Islam encountered Zoroastrianism, which as it turns out was very patriarchal.  Unfortunately, Islam picked up may of its' ideas from Zoroastrianism that often hurt women.  It was interesting to understand that history. I did some research on Zoroastrianism in Graduate school, but really only focused on early Zoroastrianism, nothing past Jesus.  I do believe that Zoroastrianism played a huge part in the apocalyptic world of Judaism and Christianity, but I had never thought about some of the other roles it had played. I need to do more research on it I guess.

I really loved the stories of women here in American who are helping to change how Americans view Islam as well as the face of Islam as a whole.  There is a movement called the Hizmet (which means service) also known as the Gulen Movement that is focused on inter-faith dialogue, education, and helping people who are in need.  I gather that the Rosengarden Center here in Portland is part of the Hizmet movement.  They put on meals during Ramadan for non-Muslims to introduce us to their practices and to share their beliefs in general.

I've emailed Dr. Pandya to see if I can get a copy of her presentation because there were some other points that I want to share (but silly me didn't bring a notebook to take notes).  Overall, I'm so glad I went!  I will definitely be going back to the Rosegarden for more activities!

Monday, June 11, 2012

Tango in Istanbul SHOES!

The other night it dawned on me that I hadn't looked at the night life in Istanbul. I'm not much of a night person or a partier, but I know the most fun I've had out partying has been while travelling.  I decided to start my searching for Istanbul evening activities with tango (logical for me). It didn't take me long to find this site.  The most exciting bit being the custom made tango shoes!  

I had heard about this guy through some friends, but I can't believe how little they cost compared to shoes here in the US that aren't even custom made. I will need to save so I can buy a couple of pairs, to make it worth it, you know. :-) 

So much for nightlife. I'm going to be too busy buying shoes!   


Thursday, May 24, 2012

Hot Air Balloon!

I've always wanted to ride in a hot air balloon, and what better time than in an exotic place?  Cappadocia seems to be the perfect spot:
If I go with this company, I get breakfast and champagne.  Fortunately, probably for safety, the champagne happens after you land.  

Friday, May 11, 2012

Language

I've travelled enough to know that it's helpful to know at least a bit of local language from the country visited.  For one thing, the locals appreciate at least some effort being put forth.  So, I'm going to learn some Turkish before I visit.  Right now, I know two words:

Merhaba: Welcome
Bocek:  insect; bug; beetle (This happens to be my friend's last name)

Here are the options I've found for studying Turkish here in Portland:

1.  Audit a class at Portland State University - I confess I was very excited about the idea of auditing a class. I know people who did this when I was in Undergraduate and I thought it was supposed to be cheap.  Well, I was wrong. For some reason, they charge you the same tuition and fees to audit a class as they do to take the class for credit. I'm not paying $600+ for one class that I don't even get credit for.

2.  Purchase Rosetta Stone - I can't tell you how many people have recommended this option to me. I'm considering it particularly because it's not as expensive as it used to be.

3.  Take a class at the American-Turkish Cultural Center here in Portland - I love this idea, but I have yet to hear back from them as to how much the classes cost and other such details. 

4.  Mango for Libraries - A friend of a friend passed this information to me.  It's going to be my first stop because it's free.   Looks like something I can do from home via the computer. 

5.  Talk to Turkish people in Turkish - This will happen after I've at least learned the alphabet and have learned a few things. Fortunately, through my tango network, I've met a couple of Turkish people here in the states who have been more than happy to help me. 

I think my goal will to be through at least a level 2 speaker. I want to know a bit more than just the basics.

Op...one more for me to check out, sent by a friend currently living in Istanbul and studying Turkish:
Pimsleur  Will be checking it out soon!

Monday, May 7, 2012

Ancient or Old?

Being a Biblical Historian who focused on studying the development of the Torah, I am undeniably interested in things that are ancient.  If something isn't AT LEAST 2000 years old, my curiosity is generally not piqued (and that's being generous, I generally prefer at least 3000 years old).  The first time then I stepped into a Neolithic structure (about 5,000 years old), my heart was a flutter...

With this in mind, I've been just slightly disappointed to read that most history books date Istanbul to about 700 BCE (yes, I know this is old, but not old enough to make my hear flutter the way something 5,000 years old did).  The story is that it was settled by Gerek cononists. The leader, Byzas, was told by the Oracle of Apollo at Delphi that he should settle across from the 'land of the blind ones."  When sailing into what is now Istanbul, Byzas determined it to be what the Oracle meant because previous settlers must have been blind to have overlooked such a wonderful location. 

But you see, I don't buy it.  I know that most historical places are built upon older historical places.  (For a fun Historical-fiction on this idea, read "The Source" by James Michener).  So I did a bit more digging and found this little gem:

Istanbul's Ancient Past Unearthed!  They claim to have found a burial sign from the 1600 BCE's.  Now THAT's what I'm talking about!  The article is very interesting. It points out that the Bosphorous Strait wouldn't have been formed yet, which means the landscape and such would've been much different from today.  I'm going to have to do more research, but it would be interesting to know what happened between the time of those first settlers and when teh Greeks came.

I am delighted. 



Sunday, April 29, 2012

A potential route

Here's a scenario that has 4 stops.  Check out the google map here.

1.  Istanbul (Stops A and E)
2.  Cappadocia (B)
3.  Hierapolis - Pamukkale (C)
4.  Ephesus (D)

Of course, there's also Troy to visit as well...

DOH!

Hierapolis and Pamukkale

Um... Can you say "ancient hot springs"?  I sure can!  Hierapolis-Pamukkale is one stop I think I just might need to make. It is a World UNESCO site too!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hierapolis
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pamukkale



Saturday, April 28, 2012

Romance

There's something romantic about planning a trip by yourself.  It's more of an adventurous romance than a traditional romance.

Being single, it's easy to look at couples and think how lucky they are to have one another. But on the other side of the fence is that I get to do exactly what I want when I want.  This trip, for example, gives me the chance to spend time with myself, my thoughts, doing the things that excite and challenge me.  I can have everything I want with just myself.

When I imagine myself on this trip, I imagine solitary walks through colorful neighborhoods.  I will treat myself to a visit to see the oldest treaty known to history (future blog post about this to come).  I will sit and watch people in silence, listening to only the air and the sounds of the city around me.  I will meet other travelers in hostels who I would not have met if I stayed in a hotel.  If I want to spend all afternoon staring at one painting in one museum, then I will do just that.

Romance doesn't need to equal roses and candle lit dinners. It doesn't need to equal physical intimacy or a ring on your finger. Romance can be getting yourself out of a rut, it can be stretching your limits and getting out of your comfort zone.  Romance can mean simply being with yourself.

Rick Steve's has a sense of humor. Who knew?!

I almost spit up my chai tea this morning when I read this from Rick Steve's Istanbul:


“Aramaic is also the language spoken by Jesus Christ, most other New Testament figures, and Mel Gibson.” P. 159
  
For those of you who are not familiar with Aramaic, here's my perspective on why this quote is so particularly funny:


o       The Aramaic that Jesus and the other New Testament figures spoke is considered a “dead language” which means that it isn’t spoken any more. Not only that, we don’t actually know what it sounded like, so it’s kind of impossible for Mel Gipson to speak it. His version of Aramaic is probably based more on modern Syrian Aramaic. They probably have similarities, but that can’t exactly be proved.  Seriously, Mel Gipson, leave the writing of stories about Jesus to the scholars.  Please.  Let’s not confuse people more. 

o        I also find this humorous in part because in Graduate School, I took a course in Aramaic so that I could read the Book of Daniel (The only Hebrew Bible book entirely written in Aramaic).  It was one of the most traumatizing things I’ve ever done, learning Aramaic. Mostly because I sucked at it.  Hebrew was easier for some reason (despite the fact that they are very similar). I partially blame the teacher. 






Wednesday, April 25, 2012

What Not to Buy

In order to save money for this trip, here is an example of something that I am not allowed to buy.  It's very sad.  This, in particular, is an amazing dress because not only is it my size, but it's a two piece- I could wear the halter with a pair of jeans if I wanted!


Photo stolen from my favorite Vintage Boutique here in Portland, Xtabay.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

The home of Abraham

As a Hebrew Bible Scholar, I am of course drawn to ancient places, preferably places that are more than 2,000 years old.  Thus, I became more than a little excited when I found that one can visit Harran. It is believed that Harran is where Abraham's family settled for some time (his father, Terah actually settled them there and then Abraham left to go to Canaan). See Genesis 11:31-12:4 if you care to.

Supposedly, when you visit modern day Harran, you can see the archaeological evidence of what was a major city that was first settled in the 3rd Millenium BCE.  That's old.  That's REALLY old.  When you visit, you can see the traditional beehive style adobe houses that would've kept the locals cool in a very very hot area of the world.  It's likely that Abraham's family lived in a house like these.  

Here's a great site with some general information about Harran. 

So here I am, getting all excited thinking, "I can go to where Abraham was!"  Then I start to get suspicious...."hmmm, where exactly IS Harran?"  I know it's not too far from Istanbul because it's listed as one of the "off the beaten path" places to visit.  

Alas.  Harran is about 25 km from Syria.  

BUMMER.  You see my dilemma, right?  Probably NOT the best time to be considering a trip that close to a country in such distress.  

It's also hard to know if I'm being overly cautious.  What are your thoughts?  Am I right for thinking that a trip to Harran is probably not a good idea? 

But look at how cool it is!!!



Monday, April 23, 2012

Two Scenerios

Where I go and how long I visit Turkey will be dependent on:
a) $$
and
b) how much time I can take off from work (I'm definitely taking at least 7 days and I'm hoping to take 10 days off)

Here are a couple of ideas:

Shorter trip
11 Days (this includes travel, so really I'd only have 9 days):
Istanbul - 6 Days
Cappadocia - 3 Days
Iznik Nicea - 1 Day trip

Longer Trip
14 Days (really only 12)
Istanbul - 6 Days
Cappadocia - 3 Days
Ephesus - 3 Days

Should I perhaps spend less time in Istanbul in lieu of other places? I'm pretty much married to going to Istanbul and Cappadocia.  But I'm feeling mixed about Iznik Nicea and Ephesus.

Thoughts?

Literature

Here are the books I'm currently reading in preparation for education and to gather ideas of where to go and what not to miss:

"Rick Steves' Istanbul" - I started with this book because I've seen some of Rick Steves' shows, and I liked that this particular book was written by two women who are from Istanbul.  I am currently about 1/3 of the way through it and using it just as an introduction to the city's top historical sites to see.

"Istanbul: Memories and the City" by Orhan Pamuk - I borrowed this one from a friend. It's a portrait of Istanbul written by somebody who was born and raised there.  I'm not very far into it, but thus far I'm already learning quite a bit about how the fall of the Ottoman Empire really affected the people of Istanbul. In addition, I love his descriptions of the city.

Insight Guides, "Istanbul: Step by Step" - I actually only bought this book because it has a map in it of Istanbul that I put on my bedroom wall for inspiration.  I couldn't find a map without a book unfortunately.  But I think it'll be fun to explore some of the walks of the city.  I haven't started it yet though.

"Byzantine Istanbul: A Self-Guided Tour" by Robert van den Graven - I haven't started reading this one yet, but I think it's not going to be your typical run-of-the mill tour book.  There seems to be a lot more history, which I will thoroughly enjoy.

These will probably be enough for a while, but do any of you have other suggestions?  Even web-sites I should check out? (Keep in mind that I'm not only going to Istanbul...see a future post for more information on that topic).

Call me the Over Planner

You are going to call me crazy. You're going to say, "what? You're planning a trip that you're not even taking for over a year?".  I am aware. But, hear me out.  Yes, I'm not planning to go to Turkey until May 2013 (in order to save $$ and accrue time off from work), but I'm planning this far ahead for a couple of reasons:

a)  To keep my eye on the prize, to stay excited and focused for this trip which will help me to save my money for it.  It's easier to save money for something when you're fully engaged in what you are saving for.

b) Because sometimes you just need a goal to keep your mind focused on. Don't get me wrong, I have plenty of things I'm thinking about in the "now" moment of my life, but it's nice to have something big to look forward to.

c) To learn as much about the parts of Turkey I will visit so that I don't just go as a tourist. I go as an explorer, an academic, and a tourist.

d) To learn some basics of the language before I get there.

I'm hoping this blog will provide the following:

a) A place for me to write down ideas and keep organized with everything I'm learning about and planning before the trip comes. That way, I can look back on my notes when the trip is closer.

b) A place for my friends and people who have been to Turkey to give suggestions.  I was more than shocked to learn how many people I know have been to Turkey, and I'd like to get all of your suggestions- everything from where to stay to what not to eat.  For example, today at Powell's book store, I was purchasing a book on Istanbul when the clerk told me that when I go to Cappadocia, I should not stay at Gorem but instead should stay at Uchisar.  Something for me to look into, anyways.